Tag Archive for 'Messner'

Anniversary of the Everest conquest without oxygen

Historical event today, May 8, 1978 Austrian climber Peter Habeler and Italian Reinhold Messner are successful in climbing Everest for the first time without supplementary oxygen. Till that today this result was thought impossible for a human person.

Photo credit: Rupert Taylor-Price/Flickr

Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978. Image via outdoorteam.at

Mount Everest as seen from Base Camp 1. Photo credit: Rupert Taylor-Price/Flickr




The fall of Maria Sharapova

I always brought Maria Sharapova as an example to handle the compettive stress with her routine at the end of each point. “Learn from her,” I said to the girls and boys playing tennis, probably only Jonny Wilkinson, rugby, has a routine so well defined and effective way to stay cool under pressure. Young people had to take a cue from her, not by passively imitate a way of being but to understand that we must have an effective system to manage the anxiety, she was a model. Well now all this has disappeared, because this job to improve her ability to manage the stress was done by meldonium. And then I hear the talk of these days: “If you want to stay in the first hundreds you need an help”, “Look at so and so, they sometimes stop because someone have warned them that otherwise would have been accused of doping”. Writes Maurizio Crosetti on La Repubblica: “The superstar rigged almost always falls with a crash, like a redwood, but in that trunk failure was ancient and invisible, something very internal and dark.” Sports betrayed in its emotions, in being the realization of dreams, in that aesthetic beauty combined with the competitiveness that leads to deal with others, to fulfill the motto “every time the best wins.” Well, today we have discovered another top athlete who belongs instead to the category “mess”, Maria Sharapova as all the others who were caught in dope. We must accept that Sharapova is part of this category as many others who were inspired us loving their performances, were fake. We must however continue to be convinced that it is possible to reach the absolute level results even without the use of doping or drug abuse. Let us remember that the limits are often only mental. Before Reinhold Messner no one had ever gone on eight-thousand without oxygen because it was thought impossible. Before Roger Bannister everyone thought that it wa impossible to run the mile under 4 minutes, 60 years ago he did it. Sport is an experience in which the aim is to challenge the impossible, to overcome the supposed physical and mental barriers and realize perfromamces thought impossible. Prepare us for this, this sport is not for everyone, it is for anyone who wants to realize his/her dreams. We have to build a sports culture on these bases and train young people daily on these concepts. We seek “divergents people” as the saga of Veronica Roth, because they are the solution and defy the evil knowing they can do it. And this does not seem rhetorical, because it comes for all the day, when someone will propose not to play the fool and it’s time to do what they do all those who want to win and have money and contracts, otherwise you will remain a nobody. Beware, though, these characters are everywhere and can be your doctor or the parents themselves.

Failure and individual responsibility

“Failure is only due to my fears, inability to tolerate being alone. In this immensity infinity”. (Reinhold Messner, Die weibe Einsamkeit). Of course, it applies to all of us and not just for mountaineers.

Acting for doubting

Reinhold Messner has written: “We go to the mountains also to have doubts about ourselves.” Apply it to all forms of performance.

Dispersi da 5 giorni sul Monte Bianco

“Ancor prima che sia montata la tenda, comincia a imperversare la bufera … La bufera è così forete che rinunciamo all’idea di parlarci. Come se si fosse interrotto il collegamento della voce da faccia a faccia. MOmenti simili restano nella memoria. La visibilità copre uno spazio di due metri per due. Pieni di immagini paurose. Nella tenda, sull’esile cengia tra il crepaccio e l’abisso, aspettiamo i peggio … Mi rannicchio nella tenda senza dirmi quello che penso. Soltanto dopo alcune ore la stanchezza e il freddo mi rendono indifferente. Entrambi ci addormentiamo a tratti … In situazioni così pericolose non c’è una via d’uscita: farsene una ragione … Non penso più a niente, Né a pericoli, né alle paure, né al domani. H smesso di reagire … Così trascorre la notte. La mia vitalità ha toccato il livello più basso da molti anni a questa parte parte.” Così ha scritto Messner, insieme a Kammerlander, la notte di bufera durante la salita all’ Annapurna (da Corsa alla vetta, 1986). Questo è ciò che si prova. Speriamo che i due alpinisti francesi bloccati a 4000 metri sul Monte Bianco da 5 giorni stiano ancora resistendo.